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Reading about watches can often feel like cracking open a textbook. Browsing—and even buying—means being barraged with inscrutable words and phrases like "tourbillons,¡± ¡°perpetual calendars,¡± ¡°minute repeaters,¡± and so on. So here, we'll be breaking down the meaning, history, and importance of different watch terms. Welcome to GQ's Watch Glossary.
If the cast of Rent ever bothered to ask the humble timepiece how it measures, measures the 525,600 minutes in a year, the watch would reply, frequency.
A watch¡¯s frequency is measured by two different terms: hertz (Hz) and vibrations per hour (VpH) (Don¡¯t worry, they¡¯re interconnected). Hertz refers to the number of oscillations that the balance wheel in a watch¡¯s movement makes in a single second. A half oscillation, meaning a swing of the wheel in either direction, is equal to one vibration. Here¡¯s what that looks like in action: a watch with a frequency of four Hz makes four full oscillations per second, or eight vibrations, which adds up to 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Mechanical watches on the extremely high end of the spectrum run at a frequency of ten Hz or more and measure time down to 1/20th of a second. That¡¯s extraordinary, though—most mechanical watches run at 2.5 to 4 Hz (18,000 to 28,800 vibrations per hour), which is more than enough for accurate, dependable timekeeping. (It¡¯s worth pointing out that quartz watches, in comparison, are orders of magnitude more precise than any mechanical watch—quartz crystal vibrates at 32,768 Hz.)
So why push mechanical movements faster? Better question: Why not? A mechanical watch movement that hits 5 Hz (36,000 vph) or above is usually known as a ¡°high-beat¡± movement, and can span the showoff spectrum from a clean-and-classic Grand Seiko SBGH205 (,800) at 36,000 vph to a six-figure Audemar Piguet Jules Audemars Chronometer with its intensely complex, absolutely beautiful 6 Hz (43,200 vph) movement. Other watches, like the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar in the above image, are built to switch between lower and higher frequencies in order to conserve energy when not in use.
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